So instead of giving you an update on my writing, I wanted to give you a review of Austin City Limits, a three-day music festival in Austin, Texas. And yes, I fully realize it's nearly impossible to talk about music without sounding like a total jerk, but I'm going to do so anyway.
I had been to ACL once, in 2005, but only for one day when I was a graduate student at UT. My wife had visited me in Austin during that time, but had never gone to ACL. So we got three-day passes, and we were ready to gorge ourselves on breakfast tacos, queso, BBQ, and music. So here's my report.
We flew into Austin early Thursday morning--and I mean early. We had to drive from VA to Baltimore, MD for a 645am flight, which meant getting up around 3am. But at least we got to our hotel in Austin by mid-day--enough time for a quick nap and then food. Even better? We were staying at the Embassy Suites: a mile from Zilker Park, where ACL would be held. We could walk that mile on scenic trails along Lady Bird Lake.
So we took a quick nap and then went to Trudy's for some Mexican Martinis and queso. The Martinis are basically big, strong margaritas, and they are delicious. And the queso--oh, how I've missed you. As if that wasn't indulgent enough, we drove from Trudy's to The Salt Lick. The Salt Lick is southwest of Austin, in Driftwood, Texas and is an institution. There's a giant open pit, so you can smell this place as you drive up. While you can get specific plates, you're a fool if you do. Get the all you can eat option. Then eat until you get the meat sweats. Then get the cobbler. Yes, we didn't do much after that. We just went back to the hotel, rubbed our stomachs, and then went to bed early. Oh, we did stop by at the Embassy Suites free happy hour--yet another reason why that hotel was a good pick.
We woke up early on Friday because, well, that's what happens when you go to bed early. But we had plenty of time to get breakfast tacos at Torchy's. If you've never heard of breakfast tacos, you're missing out. They are basically a tortilla, scrambled eggs, and a meat (but meatless and eggless options do exist), and they can be made at home quite quickly (and they are great for a "breakfast for dinner" evening). Anyway, my wife, Laura, went for pretty standard breakfast tacos: bacon & egg and chorizo & egg. I went for a couple that were a bit fancier: the crossroads (brisket) and the democrat (beef barbacoa). These were not breakfast tacos, just regular tacos for breakfast. Meat, onion, avocado, queso fesco, etc. It was a great way to start the day. After fueling up, we walked over to Zilker Park. We had yet to redeem our tickets for bracelets. Yeah, you have to wear the bracelets for all 3 days. It's kinda gross by Sunday evening. But that's the price you pay. I didn't know this, but while everyone lined up outside the grounds, the organizers blasted the Star Wars theme to announce the opening of the festival. It was a good omen.
So, we were there all day on Friday. ACL opens each day with smaller bands, transitioning to larger bands as the day goes on. We started with Sahara Smith, a young singer-songwriter who was very good. After her set, we started to walk around, and we overheard Givers. They are a young band out of Louisiana with a bit of a Paul Simon feel, but they were energetic and they sounded nice. We caught a bit of Charlie Mars, but he was a bit mild and slow, so we didn't stay long. Not that he sounded terrible, just not what we were in the mood for. We went to get something to drink, and we happened to hear Blues Traveler (what they were doing at ACL, I have no idea) doing a cover of Radiohead's "Creep," which was as strange as you'd think it would be. We then caught the end of Chief's set, and it was good. Kind of mellow, but with a full band, so it was better than Charlie Mars (basically a guy and his guitar). We grabbed a quick bite to eat before the real show started.
Friday featured a triple feature that was hard to beat. You could camp out at one stage and hear The Black Keys, Spoon, and The Strokes. Yes, Phish was the big closer that night, but we went to The Strokes (you'll see this behavior again on Sunday). I had never seen The Black Keys live before, but man were they great. There is music you make love too, and then there is music you f*ck to. This is the latter. Just great, blues-rock from two skinny white guys from Akron, Ohio. They were great, despite the incredibly drunk woman who kept stepping on Laura's and my feet. Then came Spoon who we had seen recently opening for Arcade Fire. Laura was probably most excited to see Spoon, and they put on a great show--local boys returning to Austin to perform some indie-rock. Then The Strokes. Yes, it's ten years too late to get super excited about them, and I think they knew that, but it was still a good show, featuring many songs from their first CD. And the lead singer laughed when after saying "Thunder, Thunder, Thunder Cats!" the audience responded, "Hooooooo!" (so bonus points). And who really wants to see Phish anyway? And then we had a late night dinner at Magnolia, a very tasty, mostly-vegetarian place.
Saturday started a little later. We considered getting up early to hear Lissie--another young singer-songwriter, but we were too tired, so we got a late start, but it started off right: Rudy's. Rudy's is a BBQ chain that is very tasty. If you have never been, they will give you a free taste of just about everything on the menu. Then good luck deciding what you want. I do recommend the extra lean brisket, jalapeno sausage, and the turkey, though. Try the creamed corn too--it's pretty much the only place where I will eat that, but, man is it good. It's also the place that got Laura into BBQ--all because of their sauce: a thick, sweet-smokey sauce, similar to Memphis-style sauce, but with a kick of pepper. Well, that and the turkey--she loves turkey.
Fueled up, we went to ACL. Our first group was The Gaslight Anthem. I'm a fan of them--think rock, grungy, a bit punky, but with a Bruce Springsteen feel. We then caught the opening songs of Local Natives. They were good, but we had to head to another stage to camp out for the closing act. We listened to Silversun Pickups. Another good show. We could hear The XX over at the next stage, but we weren't about to give up our seats (and we were afraid The XX would put us to sleep too). But then LCD Soundsystem came on. I know that many people were super excited to see them, but we hadn't really heard of them before. Laura was NOT a fan. I liked them more than she did, though. It was hard for me not to get sucked in by their energy, even if it was a bit too electronic for me.
However, we were amused by a woman who thought a crowd-appropriate behavior would be hula-hooping during the show, despite not having enough room to do so without hitting people. She was eventually shooed away. But it was funny to watch people trying to pass, but then freezing in shock. Interestingly, I was surprised no one walking by intentionally hit the hoop. Then the closer: Muse. Muse had been a closing act a couple years back, so many people went to go hear MIA instead (who we hear did not put on an A+ show), but more Muse for us. Muse put on a great rock show. They blast out great songs, with a light show to match. Fantastic. And then we went to Kerby Lane for breakfast for dinner (Laura had pumpkin pancakes--remember that ingredient).
On Sunday, we woke up a bit early and decided to return to Torchy's (yes, it's that good). Laura got the monthly special, "The Scarecrow," a pumpkin-seed-crusted-chicken (and cabbage slaw, and some other goodies--yeah, it was good). I got a baja shrimp taco and a carnitas taco. Man that place makes some tasty tacos. We then started our day with Ted Leo & The Pharmacists. I have friends who have recommended Ted Leo in the past, but it was his cover of "Everybody Wants to Rule the World" that hooked me (found here). A little to punk rock for Laura, but I liked it. Yes, I realize Tears for Fears and punk rock don't make any sense, but what are you gonna do? We then caught the tale end of the Foals while getting something to drink. They sounded pretty good--I wish I had heard more (kind of a poppy, rock sound). Over by the food court (which, by the way, was full of Austin signature restaurants, snow cones, and the unofficial-official ACL dish: the chicken cone (fried chicken and cole slaw, wrapped up in a tortilla in a cone paper cup)), we heard a bit of Dawes, my choice for the "we're just happy to be here band." A little too poppy for me, but not bad. We then went to go camp out for Band of Horses. But this meant catching the end of Robert Earl Keen, who has performed at every ACL. A country legend, he was a crowd favorite. Shockingly, my Bostonian wife was not a fan. But hey, good seats are worth it. We could hear a bit of Edward Sharpe and The Magnetic Zeroes though. They were interesting, but in a good way. Hard to describe. Rolling Stone said they are a mix between Arcade Fire and the Mammas and the Papas. So...yeah.
But Band of Horses were fantastic. A band I had been introduced to via Pandora, I have quickly became a big fan. Think slow, indie-rock that the whole crowd sings along to. Or just go listen to them right now to find out for yourself--the same goes for many of the bands I mentioned here. But listening to Band of Horses did mean that we missed The Flaming Lips, but that's the price you pay.
But the closer that night was the Eagles. As we are under 50, we saw The National instead. Definitely a good choice. I was introduced to them by a Law School friend, and I'm glad I was. Lyrical, driving songs that shift between something like Joy Division and a loud, pulsing rock show. They were a great way to end the festival (yes, we did hear Hotel California and a few other Eagles songs as we walked to the hotel). Well, dinner at Z Tejas followed by drinks at the bourbon and gin bar Trifecta were a great way to tend the festival.
Monday morning, we had breakfast at Juan in a Million, another Austin institution that serves up huge breakfast plates (see Man vs. Food) on the cheap. And you get a free, nearly-hand-breaking handshake from Juan himself. Then we had Amy's ice cream (Laura had pumpkin ice cream (shocker) with whoppers (double shocker--her favorite candy), and I got bourbon-walnut-chocolate with ginger snaps) before we returned home on a delay-ridden flight. We got three hours of sleep before going to work on Tuesday.
Not a terribly relaxing vacation, but man was it fun.
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